Staying in the Heart of Rome

My favorite way to experience Rome is to stay right in the historic center, preferably in a beautiful old hotel near the Roman Forum.

There is something extraordinary about waking up surrounded by so much history. You step outside in the morning, coffee may be brewing at the little café down the street, scooters are beginning to buzz past, and just a short walk away are places that have stood for thousands of years.

I love hotels with a history of their own — the kind with character, beautiful architecture, perhaps an old cryptoportico or courtyard, and rooms that remind you that you are most definitely not staying in a modern hotel that could be anywhere in the world.

In Rome, where you stay can become part of the story. And staying in the center allows you to experience one of my favorite versions of the city: Rome before everyone else wakes up.

Rome in the Early Morning

Yes, Rome has tourists. A lot of them.

But there are ways to experience the city beyond the crowds. Visit outside the busiest seasons. Get up early. Really early.

There is something almost magical about walking through Rome in the morning before the streets fill. Places that will be surrounded by people a few hours later can feel completely different.

Walk past the Roman Forum while the city is still waking up. Wander through a piazza before the café tables are filled. Turn down a quiet side street simply because it looks interesting.

Rome rewards curiosity. Sometimes the best moments aren't the ones you planned.

Look Beyond the Famous Sights

Of course, there are places in Rome that deserve to be seen at least once. The Colosseum. The Pantheon. The Trevi Fountain. The Vatican. The Roman Forum. They are famous for a reason.

But after seven visits, I have learned that some of my favorite moments happen between those places.

Rome is filled with hidden courtyards, tiny churches containing astonishing works of art, ancient ruins tucked unexpectedly between modern buildings, neighborhood markets, fountains you didn't know had a name, and little streets that suddenly open into beautiful piazzas.

Knowing where to look for those hidden gems — or simply giving yourself enough time to wander and discover them — is part of the draw. In Rome, getting a little lost can be a very good thing.

Then There Is the Food

Rome is a city to experience through food. A simple plate of pasta can become one of your favorite memories of the entire trip.

There is cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana, crispy Roman-style artichokes and pizza by the slice. There are neighborhood trattorias where the tables are close together and the menu doesn't need to be twenty pages long.

There is espresso enjoyed standing at the bar and gelato eaten while wandering through a piazza.

And then there are those restaurants you discover almost accidentally — the ones tucked away from the busiest streets where dinner stretches late into the evening and you find yourself wondering why food never seems to taste quite the same when you get home.

For me, discovering where to eat is every bit as exciting as deciding what to see. We have a favorite dining street in Rome with wonderful restaurants tucked away just outside of the tourist zone that we love.

Rome at Christmas

And if you have the opportunity to experience Rome during the Christmas season, the city takes on an entirely different personality.

The air is cooler. The streets glow in the evenings with beautiful holiday lights draped above. Storefronts are decorated for the holidays and piazzas seem to invite you to linger a little longer. The main Christmas tree in the Piazza del Popolo is decorated with a different light display every year.

And there is one smell that instantly takes me back. Chestnuts roasting over an open fire.

You catch the scent as you walk through the streets, mixed with the cool winter air and the aromas drifting from cafés and restaurants.

Then somewhere nearby, a street musician begins to play. You stop. For a moment, you aren't thinking about the next monument or reservation. You're simply standing on a street in Rome, listening to music, surrounded by buildings that have witnessed centuries of people doing exactly what you are doing — living, eating, laughing, falling in love and wandering through this extraordinary city.

Those are the moments I remember.

Rome Isn't a Checklist

Perhaps that's why I have returned so many times. Rome isn't a city I believe you can experience by checking attractions off a list.

See the Colosseum. Check. Throw a coin into the Trevi Fountain. Check. Visit the Vatican. Check. Those experiences are wonderful, but they are only the beginning.

The Rome I love is discovered in the spaces between them. It's an early morning walk through streets that will soon be crowded. It's finding an incredible little restaurant away from the busiest piazza. It's hearing music drifting through an alleyway at night and into your hotel window if you leave it open. It's stepping through the doors of an unassuming church and discovering something magnificent inside.

It's sitting at an outdoor table with a glass of wine and realizing you have nowhere you need to be for the next two hours.

That is Rome.